Wednesday 8thth October.
We awoke to fresh overnight snow and looking out of the hotel window we saw about two inches of snow on the roofs of the nearby houses and cars outside our window. What a sight. After a slow start we again layered up with clothes and left the hotel to catch the bus to the Sulphur Mountain Gondola and as it climbed the lower slopes we could see the snow covering the ground between the fir trees. We were soon in the gondola swinging our way up the steep climb over the ‘Christmas’ tree like landscape.
The 7500 foot high mountain had a restaurant and viewing platform at the terminal with a 360 degree view around the Rockies. A wooden walkway covered in snow about 6 inches deep allowed us to cross to the summit of another peak, Mt Sanson 7667 feet about 400 yards away. We walked across in brilliant sunshine as did many other tourists. We met two Canadian sisters who with a bottle of champagne and two glasses were about to have a toast in memory of their mother who was an ‘adventurer’. We took some photos of the occasion on their cameras.
The day was clear and we could see for miles down to Banff and the valley beyond as well as the surrounding mountains. Just before we left to go down in the gondola we saw a couple with a young son 10.5 months old and the wee man was wearing an ‘All Black’ jersey. We started a conversation with the parents who were both Canadian but the child’s aunt had been living in NZ for 8 years and she had sent the jersey.
Before we took the bus back into Banff we visited the hot baths heated by a spring from the mountain.
Thursday 9th October.
Our plan had been to spend some time in Banff to get our paper work completed and print our Blog. But the day dawned without a cloud in the sky though very coo and we decided we could not waste such a beautiful day inside so Chris arranged for a rental car to be picked up at 11.00 am and we checked out of the hotel and set off towards Lake Louise and then Jasper on the Icefields Parkway.
It took about an hour on Highway One to Lake Louise. We were treated to the wonderful sight of this pretty lake with fir trees down to the edge and the lake fed from a glacier in the distance. The Fairmont Resort was nearby but the tariff was a bit beyond our pocket. We spent some time at the lake before getting ourselves a coffee (not at the Fairmont) and driving to the start of the Icefields Parkway.
This road to Jasper is 230 km long, well constructed with many long straights and capable of speeds above 100 kph. However as animals cross the road at various points the speed limit varies from 60 to 90 kph. and the mountains are on both sides of the road.. Our road map pointed out viewing points along the way and we were able to stop where and when we wished, to enjoy and photograph the majestic scenery. At a stop at Peyto Lake a local pointed out that we could drive closer if we took another side road and drove around the barrier placed across the road. We did this and found ourselves in a delightful view point looking down the lake and also across to another glacier. There are 25 glaciers of various sizes to be seen from the Parkway.
We finally arrived in Jasper at close to 7.00 pm, as the sun was setting and we stopped and watched a small group of Elk (like reindeer) cross the road just as we entered the town. We found a room at the Jasper Inn and settled in for the night. The expected temperature overnight was minus 6 degrees C.
Friday 10th October.
Although we had thought we might spend some time at the hotel the day had dawned with clear skies and no wind. We cleaned the frost from the car windows, dressed warmly and headed out to see the nearby lakes. The first one was at the Jasper Fairmont hotel and the Jasper golf course. As we walked the 2 to 3 kilometres around this lake, we were favoured with many views reflected in the almost still waters that were pristinely clear. We saw chipmunks darting about but very little bird life.
At one bay we came across two men in scuba gear and from them ascertained the water was about 4 degrees. One fellow was training the other from what we could see. Further around the lake we came to the 14th tee of the golf course and as we were pretending Chris was about to tee off across the arm of the lake a group of 4 golf carts arrived with 8 people and we watched the experts tee off across about 70 yards of water. They were taking photos and Chris offered to take their group photo. We completed our walk and marvelled at the wonderful setting for the golf course.
Fortunately prior to leaving the Fairmont we bought a pair of gloves for Warwick to wear as the temperature was close to freezing.
Later we visited two more lakes but by this time the breeze had commenced and the clouds started to come over making the air even colder. We did not venture far at either of these lakes but agreed they could not compare with the views at the first one. As we drove back towards Jasper we took some photos of the river and watched a goods train go through the town, it seemed to be about 2 kilometers long. After shopping in Jasper we were quite pleased to get back to the warmth of the hotel.
Saturday 11th October.
It was again a cool morning. As we could not book our hotel for another night (we were told the other hotels in Jasper were full, it was Thanksgiving Day on Monday 13th and a long weekend) we decided to make the most of another fine day and drive back down the Icefields Parkway towards Banff. We agreed that we would try and see some of the sights we missed on the drive to Jasper. These included the Athabasca Falls and the Sunwapta Falls and also Horseshoe Lake. These were great to see especially with the ice formations on the rocks where the water was pouring over. The Horseshoe lake was still without a breeze to disturb the surface.
As we climbed towards the Sunwapta pass (2030m) we stopped at a rock face where the Tangle Creek was spilling over. This creek was almost frozen and a wonderful sight.
From that point it was only a kilometre to the Columbia Icefield. We stopped at the Icefield Centre to consider whether to go up to the top of the glacier by special bus. We decided against that trip but took our car to a carpark below the toe of the glacier where we could see people walking to the glacier. Although the sun was shining we were extremely cold as we walked up the icy path with the breeze blowing across the glacier towards us. The discomfort was worth it. We reached the toe of the glacier and stood alongside the huge lumps of ice that had fallen from the edge of the glacier and at one point could see under the glacier and many icicles.
On our return to the car we walked 200 metres to a nearby lake that was completely frozen over. The ice was several inches thick and like many before us we bowled rocks onto the ice and watched them skid for 50 to 70 metres depending on whether they missed the many rocks sitting on the surface. A bit like curling.
While we had a few more stops on the way to take photos of icy rivers and mountains (the car temperature gauge showed minus two degrees C outside) we made good time to Banff arriving as the sun was going down. We went back to the hotel we had been in previously but found, like Jasper the towns hotels were almost all booked out. Fortunately with the help of one hotel receptionist, we managed to get a room at the Ptarmigan Inn for our last two nights in Banff.
Sunday 12 th October.
The car had to be returned by 11.00am so we were on foot for the rest of our stay. The weather had changed and had become overcast and cold. One degree C at midday!! The shops were open so we went out to see if there were any bargains (no), had a hot lunch in a food hall and returned to the hotel to enjoy the warmth and prepare for our early departure next day.
At 6.30 pm we decided to find a church service to attend and picked the Banff Full Gospel Church and walked the few blocks from the hotel. On the way to the church we passed a young Elk that had wondered into the town, grazing on a front lawn. We arrived at the church at 7.00 to find the service started at 7.30 pm. We chatted to the pastor as we waited and listened to the small music group prepare for the service. About 25 people attended and we enjoyed the service led by a young Philippine fellow.
On the way back to the hotel Warwick informed Chris that he had read that a black bear had been found in a tree in that particular street on the Monday of the previous week and rangers had closed off the street to protect both residents and the bear. Chris did not break into a gallop but we did quicken the pace !
